maybe dirty egr ports 90 accord

[ampage8]

Ok i have a new problem that develoded about a week after changing distributor, distributor cap, rotor, and fuel pump. The new problem is when i shift and accelerate, for the first 3 seconds the car hesitates in the lower rpms. After a little research ive heard of the problem being fixed with cleaning egr ports. only problem is i dont know exactly how to go about that. Im reading stuff about drilling holes and sticking coat hangers in, So if anyone has any ideas or pictures/directions on cleaning dirty ports please let me know. I have since removed the egr and cleaned pretty thourghly with carb cleaner and scraping, with no change in hesitation at low rpms.

[ampage8]

I believe i did a pretty good job cleaning the egr ports removing the plugs and scraping and spraying with carb cleaner, I am still having moderate to heavy hesitation in low rpms but only when accelerating. Has anyone heard of this? any suggestion will be appreciated!

[driver540]

I dont think the EGR is your problem. Reason? Egr does not really operate until you reach cruising speeds up around highway speeds. Its worth a try though. If you do clean the ports, use carberator cleaner. A hanger or stiff wire can be used if there is some solid blockage.

[crank.it]

hi guys-iam kinda leaning with driver on this one.....if you changed dist ...wires and the like I would recheck the timing i beleive the dist can be adjusted to 5-6 degress advance or retarted..when mis timed it can cause the symptoms your feeling...mark the dist were it is know then move advance a little at a time..you can go 2-3 degres without to much fear..youll know cause the engine will ping or idle ruff...but only go in little amounts 1/16 at a time......then lock the dist and take it for a run.....crank.it

[re-tired]

I submit this for your reading pleasure. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/t2t013.pdf">http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/t2t013.pdf</a><!-- m -->

[ampage8]

i adjusted the distributor cap1/16 as far each way it will go i still have hesitation, i have new plugs, wires, air filter, is it possible for the car to run fine for a week with new distributor and then pull this a week later? it sounds like the timing had to be on. please let me know if you have any other ideas

[ampage8]

i believe i did a good job on egr ports, after pulling plugs there were small holes straight down, partially clogged i sprayed cleaner and poked a hanger through the small hole, is this how you clean egr valves or did i miss something? please help, i need to get back to work soon

[re-tired]

What type of timing light are you using ? If you are using the correct procedure the timing should be ruled out.Did you read the article I linked for you.I've had several customers wuth similar symtoms wiith good results

[re-tired]

If egr checks out .I beleve honda's had carbs until 92. If you have carb ,check the choke pull off diaphram top front passenger side of the carb;undercold condition, engine runningpinch off both vacum lines going to it and the choke plate rod should pull back.
Check for vacum leaks.
When you have the breather off; to run the engine plug the vacumhoses/connections on the passenger side of the carb.
The connection on the drivers side is just a vent doesn't need plugged

[ampage8]

i have fuel injection, i have recently changed the fuel pump, is it possible to get a bad fuel pump from an upstanding auto parts store that rhymes with autotone? :wink: :roll:

[ampage8]

ok, sorry to have wasted everyones good ideas, I was lead to believe the fuel pump i just installed was faulty. when i went to remove the fuel pump, i noticed the 2 inch rubber hose that connects to the fuel pump had fallen off. i reattached and the car is running fine, even better than before, now that i cleaned the egr valves and all the other stuff i have fixed, cleaned, or replaced. I really do appreciate everyones ideas, without them i would have never become confident that it was somethin i messed up in the past. Thanks again!!!!