http://www.10w30.com/ Sun, 05 Sep 2010 00:58:33 +0000 MyBB http://www.10w30.com/thread-9523.html Wed, 01 Sep 2010 11:59:47 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9523.html http://www.10w30.com/thread-9522.html Tue, 31 Aug 2010 05:11:09 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9522.html http://www.10w30.com/thread-9521.html Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:13:14 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9521.html ]]> ]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9520.html Sun, 29 Aug 2010 05:16:49 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9520.html Book your ticket or package from Sport Events and get chance to watch the race live and enjoy world-class arts, entertainment, fine dining, shopping and all that Indianapolis has offer.]]> Book your ticket or package from Sport Events and get chance to watch the race live and enjoy world-class arts, entertainment, fine dining, shopping and all that Indianapolis has offer.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9519.html Sat, 28 Aug 2010 18:48:58 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9519.html
Symptoms almost exactly like leaster1939. Cold (sitting overnight) start no problem, runs smoothly. Hot start no problem. Problem start after shutting off hot and sitting for a couple of hours.
Might take 6 attempts before starting. Workaround is to tromp on the gas pedal while ignition in start, and it catches and I gun it and its running fine again.
Another strange clue: one time I had it running with the hood open and I let the hood slam closed and engine DIED suddenly.
Like leaster1939, I was thinking ignition module.
What do you think?
Thanks.]]>
Symptoms almost exactly like leaster1939. Cold (sitting overnight) start no problem, runs smoothly. Hot start no problem. Problem start after shutting off hot and sitting for a couple of hours.
Might take 6 attempts before starting. Workaround is to tromp on the gas pedal while ignition in start, and it catches and I gun it and its running fine again.
Another strange clue: one time I had it running with the hood open and I let the hood slam closed and engine DIED suddenly.
Like leaster1939, I was thinking ignition module.
What do you think?
Thanks.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9518.html Fri, 27 Aug 2010 21:02:41 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9518.html http://www.10w30.com/thread-9517.html Thu, 26 Aug 2010 23:38:41 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9517.html http://www.10w30.com/thread-9516.html Mon, 23 Aug 2010 23:55:46 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9516.html I was fortunate to walk away with a minor case of whiplash, but my car is totaled



]]> I was fortunate to walk away with a minor case of whiplash, but my car is totaled



]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9515.html Thu, 19 Aug 2010 01:39:32 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9515.html http://www.10w30.com/thread-9514.html Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:35:41 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9514.html 1.
Step 1

Try to locate the unique code number that will unlock the theft-protected audio system on your 2003 Honda Civic. It probably was imprinted on an anti-theft identification card that you should have received when you acquired the car. The code was printed on a document that came with your owner's manual packet
2.
Step 2

If you do not have the code, you will need to track down the audio system's serial number. In the case of the 2003 Honda Civic, finding the serial number may require seeking assistance from a Honda dealer. The dealer should be able to determine the audio system's special code number so you can reset the radio. With some newer Honda Civic models, the serial number can be retrieved electronically from the radio.
3.
Step 3

If you are able to locate the serial number of your 2003 Honda Civic's audio system without a dealer's assistance, you can obtain the special code by going online to the Honda Web site. You must first provide specific information to prove you own the car. For instance, you will need the Civic's vehicle identification number, or VIN, and the audio system's serial number.
4.
Step 4

When you know what the audio system's special code number is, use the preset buttons on the car radio to punch in the digits. This should reset the audio system, enabling you to resume using the radio and the CD player.]]> 1.
Step 1

Try to locate the unique code number that will unlock the theft-protected audio system on your 2003 Honda Civic. It probably was imprinted on an anti-theft identification card that you should have received when you acquired the car. The code was printed on a document that came with your owner's manual packet
2.
Step 2

If you do not have the code, you will need to track down the audio system's serial number. In the case of the 2003 Honda Civic, finding the serial number may require seeking assistance from a Honda dealer. The dealer should be able to determine the audio system's special code number so you can reset the radio. With some newer Honda Civic models, the serial number can be retrieved electronically from the radio.
3.
Step 3

If you are able to locate the serial number of your 2003 Honda Civic's audio system without a dealer's assistance, you can obtain the special code by going online to the Honda Web site. You must first provide specific information to prove you own the car. For instance, you will need the Civic's vehicle identification number, or VIN, and the audio system's serial number.
4.
Step 4

When you know what the audio system's special code number is, use the preset buttons on the car radio to punch in the digits. This should reset the audio system, enabling you to resume using the radio and the CD player.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9513.html Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:33:38 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9513.html
1.
Step 1

Lift the Reatta with a floor jack to gain access to the front undercarriage. Place jack stands under the front sub-frame to support the weight of the vehicle if the floor jack should fail.
2.
Step 2

Open the hood, and test the battery with a volt/ohm meter. The batter voltage should be no less then 12.5 volts. Anything less indicates a discharged battery. Charge the battery, before continuing if it is below 12.5 volts
3.
Step 3

Remove the splash shield protecting the starter. This will allow access to the back of the starter and the wiring.
4.
Step 4

Check the positive battery cable for looseness at the back of the starter. Attach the test light to the frame and touch the probe point to the large, red primary battery cable. Power is supplied to this connection at all times.
5.
Step 5

Touch the probe of the test light to the purple start-signal wire at the connector on the back of the starter. Have a helper turn the ignition key to the start position, and the wire should have power supplied to it. If power is present and the starter does not turn, the starter is bad. If power is not present, check fusible links and fuses with a test light. If the fuses and fusible links are OK, the ignition switch is bad.]]>
1.
Step 1

Lift the Reatta with a floor jack to gain access to the front undercarriage. Place jack stands under the front sub-frame to support the weight of the vehicle if the floor jack should fail.
2.
Step 2

Open the hood, and test the battery with a volt/ohm meter. The batter voltage should be no less then 12.5 volts. Anything less indicates a discharged battery. Charge the battery, before continuing if it is below 12.5 volts
3.
Step 3

Remove the splash shield protecting the starter. This will allow access to the back of the starter and the wiring.
4.
Step 4

Check the positive battery cable for looseness at the back of the starter. Attach the test light to the frame and touch the probe point to the large, red primary battery cable. Power is supplied to this connection at all times.
5.
Step 5

Touch the probe of the test light to the purple start-signal wire at the connector on the back of the starter. Have a helper turn the ignition key to the start position, and the wire should have power supplied to it. If power is present and the starter does not turn, the starter is bad. If power is not present, check fusible links and fuses with a test light. If the fuses and fusible links are OK, the ignition switch is bad.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9512.html Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:31:06 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9512.html 1.
Step 1

Jack up the Ranger and place the frame onto jack stands by centering each stand to balance the weight of the truck.
2.
Step 2

Remove the front wheels with a lug wrench by turning each lug nut counterclockwise. Set the wheels and tires aside.
3.
Step 3

Check for leaks from the transfer case, front differential and each hub assembly by wiping the area with a clean cloth. Any leaks are the result of weak or worn seals or gaskets around vacuum connections on the transfer case. The 1999 Ranger came with automatic locking hubs; these require a small amount of lubricant that can seep out. Repair of these leaks will depend greatly on their location, but removal of the transfer case, differential or individual hubs may be required to replace seals.
4.
Step 4

Check for loose or broken front drive or suspension parts by wiggling each component lightly. If a sound was present when in operation, check the hardware in the area the sound was heard. A grinding or crunching sound could be caused by damaged wheel bearings, which are a part of the automatic hub on each side. Whining or moaning sounds can be indicative of leaking hubs or low lubricant level in the differential. Popping or clicking sounds could be damaged gears inside the differential or transfer case or may be a vacuum switch issue.
5.
Step 5

Remove the suspension components first by disassembling the brakes, pressing the ball joints out, loosening and sliding the tie rods out and unbolting the anti-sway bar, if applicable. Front torsion bars can be left in place. This will give greater access to the front drive parts.
6.
Step 6

Remove the front differential by unbolting the axle nuts on each hub (removing the hubs), then uncoupling the drive shaft from the transfer case so that the differential can be relieved of the bolts that hold it in place. Once free of the transfer case, the differential can be worked out with a floor jack until it is free of the truck.
7.
Step 7

Repair issues with the vacuum switch or fluid levels without removing the transfer case. Repair any issues with the drive shaft or differential before replacement.]]> 1.
Step 1

Jack up the Ranger and place the frame onto jack stands by centering each stand to balance the weight of the truck.
2.
Step 2

Remove the front wheels with a lug wrench by turning each lug nut counterclockwise. Set the wheels and tires aside.
3.
Step 3

Check for leaks from the transfer case, front differential and each hub assembly by wiping the area with a clean cloth. Any leaks are the result of weak or worn seals or gaskets around vacuum connections on the transfer case. The 1999 Ranger came with automatic locking hubs; these require a small amount of lubricant that can seep out. Repair of these leaks will depend greatly on their location, but removal of the transfer case, differential or individual hubs may be required to replace seals.
4.
Step 4

Check for loose or broken front drive or suspension parts by wiggling each component lightly. If a sound was present when in operation, check the hardware in the area the sound was heard. A grinding or crunching sound could be caused by damaged wheel bearings, which are a part of the automatic hub on each side. Whining or moaning sounds can be indicative of leaking hubs or low lubricant level in the differential. Popping or clicking sounds could be damaged gears inside the differential or transfer case or may be a vacuum switch issue.
5.
Step 5

Remove the suspension components first by disassembling the brakes, pressing the ball joints out, loosening and sliding the tie rods out and unbolting the anti-sway bar, if applicable. Front torsion bars can be left in place. This will give greater access to the front drive parts.
6.
Step 6

Remove the front differential by unbolting the axle nuts on each hub (removing the hubs), then uncoupling the drive shaft from the transfer case so that the differential can be relieved of the bolts that hold it in place. Once free of the transfer case, the differential can be worked out with a floor jack until it is free of the truck.
7.
Step 7

Repair issues with the vacuum switch or fluid levels without removing the transfer case. Repair any issues with the drive shaft or differential before replacement.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9510.html Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:27:24 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9510.html
1.
Step 1

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, but without fully removing them.
2.
Step 2

Jack up the rear of your Ford Taurus and place jack stands into place.
3.
Step 3

Remove the lug nuts completely and then remove the tires. Place them on the side.
4.
Step 4

Remove the brake drum by rocking it slightly back and forth until it slides off. Set it on the side.
5.
Step 5

Clean the area well by spraying brake cleaner onto the brake shoes.
6.
Step 6

Remove the brake shoe top and bottom springs using the brake shoe pliers.
7.
Step 7

Separate the left brake shoe from the emergency arm by removing the small U-shaped clip with a screwdriver. Put a new left brake shoe on by holding it against the emergency arm and slipping the U-shaped clip back into place.
8.
Step 8

Re-attach the brake springs using the brake shoe pliers.
9.
Step 9

Slide the brake drum back into place.
10.
Step 10

Replace the tire and lug nuts and repeat the procedure on the other side of the car. Remove the Taurus from the jack stands. Pump your brakes several times to make sure they work.]]>
1.
Step 1

Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, but without fully removing them.
2.
Step 2

Jack up the rear of your Ford Taurus and place jack stands into place.
3.
Step 3

Remove the lug nuts completely and then remove the tires. Place them on the side.
4.
Step 4

Remove the brake drum by rocking it slightly back and forth until it slides off. Set it on the side.
5.
Step 5

Clean the area well by spraying brake cleaner onto the brake shoes.
6.
Step 6

Remove the brake shoe top and bottom springs using the brake shoe pliers.
7.
Step 7

Separate the left brake shoe from the emergency arm by removing the small U-shaped clip with a screwdriver. Put a new left brake shoe on by holding it against the emergency arm and slipping the U-shaped clip back into place.
8.
Step 8

Re-attach the brake springs using the brake shoe pliers.
9.
Step 9

Slide the brake drum back into place.
10.
Step 10

Replace the tire and lug nuts and repeat the procedure on the other side of the car. Remove the Taurus from the jack stands. Pump your brakes several times to make sure they work.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9509.html Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:26:33 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9509.html
Push Button Door Handle Instructions (1965 through 1970 models)
1.
Step 1

Open the door with the faulty door handle and roll the window all the way up. Remove the interior door handle and window crank handle by loosening, but not removing, the set screw at the base of each handle with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the handles straight off of door panel and place them aside. Follow subsequent steps if you need to replace the outer door handle.
2.
Step 2

Remove the two retaining screws from the door arm rest with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the arm rest from the door and place it aside. Remove the interior door panel by sliding a panel removal tool under the edges of the panel and pulling outward. Place the panel aside.
3.
Step 3

Locate the outer door handle retaining screw just behind the outer portion of the handle on the inner door lip. Remove the screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
4.
Step 4

Reach inside the cavity revealed after removing the door panel and lift up on the clip that attaches the door actuator rod to the inner side of the door handle. Pull the rod from the door handle. Remove the door handle retaining screw near the actuator rod with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the handle straight out of the door from the outside and remove it.
5.
Step 5

Install the new outer handle in the reverse order of Steps 2 through 4. Position the door panel in place and push in around its perimeter until it snaps into place. Push the interior window crank and door handle into place and tighten the set screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Hold the arm rest in place while tightening the two retaining screws.
Recessed Door Handle Instructions (1978 through 1993 models)
6.
Step 1

Protect the paintwork around the exterior of the door handle with masking tape. Lift up slightly on the door handle to reveal the two rivets that attach the door handle to the door. Place a punch over the center of one of the rivets. Hit the punch with a hammer until the rivet is driven out. Repeat this procedure for the other rivet.
7.
Step 2

Remove the inside door handle cup and the armrest by backing out the retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Slide the plastic cover away from the window crank. Remove the window crank with a torx screwdriver. Pry the door panel away from the door with a panel removal tool until the retaining clips release. Lift the panel up and away from the door.
8.
Step 3

Pull back the paper liner on the inside of the door to reveal the inner cavity. Locate the lock rod that is still attached to the outside door handle. Pry the lock rod down with a flat-blade screwdriver and pull the door handle straight out from the outside of the door.
9.
Step 4

Place the new handle into position on the outside of the door. Secure the handle to the door with small bolts, lock washers and nuts. Tighten with a small wrench.
10.
Step 5

Push the lock rod onto the retaining hole on the inside of the door handle until it snaps into place. Install the door panel, window crank handle, door handle cup and armrest in the reverse order of Step 2.]]>
Push Button Door Handle Instructions (1965 through 1970 models)
1.
Step 1

Open the door with the faulty door handle and roll the window all the way up. Remove the interior door handle and window crank handle by loosening, but not removing, the set screw at the base of each handle with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the handles straight off of door panel and place them aside. Follow subsequent steps if you need to replace the outer door handle.
2.
Step 2

Remove the two retaining screws from the door arm rest with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the arm rest from the door and place it aside. Remove the interior door panel by sliding a panel removal tool under the edges of the panel and pulling outward. Place the panel aside.
3.
Step 3

Locate the outer door handle retaining screw just behind the outer portion of the handle on the inner door lip. Remove the screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
4.
Step 4

Reach inside the cavity revealed after removing the door panel and lift up on the clip that attaches the door actuator rod to the inner side of the door handle. Pull the rod from the door handle. Remove the door handle retaining screw near the actuator rod with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the handle straight out of the door from the outside and remove it.
5.
Step 5

Install the new outer handle in the reverse order of Steps 2 through 4. Position the door panel in place and push in around its perimeter until it snaps into place. Push the interior window crank and door handle into place and tighten the set screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Hold the arm rest in place while tightening the two retaining screws.
Recessed Door Handle Instructions (1978 through 1993 models)
6.
Step 1

Protect the paintwork around the exterior of the door handle with masking tape. Lift up slightly on the door handle to reveal the two rivets that attach the door handle to the door. Place a punch over the center of one of the rivets. Hit the punch with a hammer until the rivet is driven out. Repeat this procedure for the other rivet.
7.
Step 2

Remove the inside door handle cup and the armrest by backing out the retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Slide the plastic cover away from the window crank. Remove the window crank with a torx screwdriver. Pry the door panel away from the door with a panel removal tool until the retaining clips release. Lift the panel up and away from the door.
8.
Step 3

Pull back the paper liner on the inside of the door to reveal the inner cavity. Locate the lock rod that is still attached to the outside door handle. Pry the lock rod down with a flat-blade screwdriver and pull the door handle straight out from the outside of the door.
9.
Step 4

Place the new handle into position on the outside of the door. Secure the handle to the door with small bolts, lock washers and nuts. Tighten with a small wrench.
10.
Step 5

Push the lock rod onto the retaining hole on the inside of the door handle until it snaps into place. Install the door panel, window crank handle, door handle cup and armrest in the reverse order of Step 2.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9508.html Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:25:42 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9508.html Step 1

Locate the alternator on the side of the MercCruiser engine. The alternator has a slide bracket in the front that the alternator belt is tensioned by. Loosen the lock nut on the front of the slide bracket with the ratchet and a socket.
2.
Step 2

Loosen the alternator mounting bolt with the ratchet and socket. The mounting bolt is the bolt that connects the alternator to the alternator bracket. Turn the bolt counter clockwise to loosen.
3.
Step 3

Position the pry bar on the side of the alternator and pry downward on the alternator. This process will cause the alternator to slide inside of the slide bracket, which will cause the belt to loosen.
4.
Step 4

Pull the alternator belt out of the pulleys and out of the engine area.
5.
Step 5

Route the new belt onto the pulleys. Then, pry the alternator upward with the pry bar. While holding the alternator upward with the pry bar, tighten the alternator mounting bolt with your other hand. Then release the pry bar and remove it from the engine area.
6.
Step 6

Check the tension of the new belt. A properly tensioned belt will only have about a half-inch of slack. If there is more than a half-inch of slack in the belt, loosen the mounting bolt and pry the alternator upward until the belt has no more than a half-inch of slack in the belt.
7.
Step 7

Tighten the lock nut on the slide bracket tight with the ratchet and socket. Inspect the belt and make sure it is properly seated inside the pulleys.
8.
Step 8

Crank the MercCruiser and let the engine run for about fifteen seconds. Then, turn the engine off and recheck the tension of the belt.]]> Step 1

Locate the alternator on the side of the MercCruiser engine. The alternator has a slide bracket in the front that the alternator belt is tensioned by. Loosen the lock nut on the front of the slide bracket with the ratchet and a socket.
2.
Step 2

Loosen the alternator mounting bolt with the ratchet and socket. The mounting bolt is the bolt that connects the alternator to the alternator bracket. Turn the bolt counter clockwise to loosen.
3.
Step 3

Position the pry bar on the side of the alternator and pry downward on the alternator. This process will cause the alternator to slide inside of the slide bracket, which will cause the belt to loosen.
4.
Step 4

Pull the alternator belt out of the pulleys and out of the engine area.
5.
Step 5

Route the new belt onto the pulleys. Then, pry the alternator upward with the pry bar. While holding the alternator upward with the pry bar, tighten the alternator mounting bolt with your other hand. Then release the pry bar and remove it from the engine area.
6.
Step 6

Check the tension of the new belt. A properly tensioned belt will only have about a half-inch of slack. If there is more than a half-inch of slack in the belt, loosen the mounting bolt and pry the alternator upward until the belt has no more than a half-inch of slack in the belt.
7.
Step 7

Tighten the lock nut on the slide bracket tight with the ratchet and socket. Inspect the belt and make sure it is properly seated inside the pulleys.
8.
Step 8

Crank the MercCruiser and let the engine run for about fifteen seconds. Then, turn the engine off and recheck the tension of the belt.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9507.html Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:23:17 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9507.html

Removing the Shocks
1.
Step 1

Loosen the front wheels' lug nuts using a lug wrench.
2.
Step 2

Jack up the front or rear wheels and support the vehicle on two jack stands and chock the wheels that remain on the ground.
3.
Step 3

Take out the rear seat cushion and back to gain access to the shock assembly's upper mounting nuts if you are changing the rear shocks.
4.
Step 4

Work on one side at a time and detach the brake hose bracket from the bottom of the shock absorber and the anti-lock brake system speed sensor bracket next to the brake hose bracket using a wrench.
5.
Step 5

Detach the stabilizer bar link from the bottom of the shock using a wrench.
6.
Step 6

Unfasten the two mounting bolts holding the bottom of the shock absorber to the steering knuckle. Hold the bolt's head with a six-point box-end wrench as you unfasten the retaining nut with a socket and ratchet. If you find any of the fasteners rusted and hard to loosen, apply rust penetrant to the threads, following the product instructions.
7.
Step 7

Open the hood and unfasten the three upper nuts holding the shock absorber (strut assembly) to the strut tower using a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Be careful not to unfasten the upper center nut, which may suddenly release the coil spring under pressure and cause severe injury.
8.
Step 8

Take the strut assembly out of the wheel well and set the assembly upright by securing the bottom of the strut on a vise.
9.
Step 9

Install a two-piece coil spring compressor to retract the coil from the upper spring seat. Follow the tool installation instructions and double-check you have it installed properly or the coil will spring out at you with great force once you unfasten the upper center nut.
10.
Step 10

Unfasten the upper center nut from the strut assembly with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket and remove the washer, suspension support, spring seat, upper insulator ring and the spring bumper boot. Organize these components on a workbench so that you reassemble them in the same order.
11.
Step 11

Remove the compressed coil spring from the shock and the shock from the vise.
Installing the New Shock
12.
Step 1

Set the new shock upright on the vise and seat the compressed coil spring on the new shock.
13.
Step 2

Assemble the new shock by installing the spring bumper boot, upper insulator ring, spring seat, suspension support and washer. Fasten the upper center nut using the ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket.
14.
Step 3

Release the two-piece coil spring compressor gradually from the assembly and remove the tool.
15.
Step 4

Position the strut assembly into the wheel well and hand-tighten the three upper mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 29 foot-pounds (39 Nm) with a torque wrench, short ratchet extension and socket.
16.
Step 5

Secure the bottom of the shock absorber to the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolts to 203 foot-pounds (274 Nm), or 105 foot-pounds (142 Nm) if you are replacing the rear shocks. Use the torque wrench.
17.
Step 6

Install the stabilizer bar link to the shock and tighten the nut to 33 foot-pounds (44 Nm) using the torque wrench if you are replacing the rear shocks.
18.
Step 7

Attach the ABS speed sensor bracket and brake hose bracket to the bottom of the shock absorber using the wrench.
19.
Step 8

Move to the other side to replace the shock. Start at Step 4 in Section 1.
20.
Step 9

Install the front wheels and lug nuts. Lower your Corolla and remove the chocks from the wheels.
21.
Step 10

Replace the rear seat cushion and back if you changed the rear shocks.
22.
Step 11

Take your Corolla to the auto shop for wheel alignment inspection if you changed the front shocks.]]>

Removing the Shocks
1.
Step 1

Loosen the front wheels' lug nuts using a lug wrench.
2.
Step 2

Jack up the front or rear wheels and support the vehicle on two jack stands and chock the wheels that remain on the ground.
3.
Step 3

Take out the rear seat cushion and back to gain access to the shock assembly's upper mounting nuts if you are changing the rear shocks.
4.
Step 4

Work on one side at a time and detach the brake hose bracket from the bottom of the shock absorber and the anti-lock brake system speed sensor bracket next to the brake hose bracket using a wrench.
5.
Step 5

Detach the stabilizer bar link from the bottom of the shock using a wrench.
6.
Step 6

Unfasten the two mounting bolts holding the bottom of the shock absorber to the steering knuckle. Hold the bolt's head with a six-point box-end wrench as you unfasten the retaining nut with a socket and ratchet. If you find any of the fasteners rusted and hard to loosen, apply rust penetrant to the threads, following the product instructions.
7.
Step 7

Open the hood and unfasten the three upper nuts holding the shock absorber (strut assembly) to the strut tower using a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Be careful not to unfasten the upper center nut, which may suddenly release the coil spring under pressure and cause severe injury.
8.
Step 8

Take the strut assembly out of the wheel well and set the assembly upright by securing the bottom of the strut on a vise.
9.
Step 9

Install a two-piece coil spring compressor to retract the coil from the upper spring seat. Follow the tool installation instructions and double-check you have it installed properly or the coil will spring out at you with great force once you unfasten the upper center nut.
10.
Step 10

Unfasten the upper center nut from the strut assembly with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket and remove the washer, suspension support, spring seat, upper insulator ring and the spring bumper boot. Organize these components on a workbench so that you reassemble them in the same order.
11.
Step 11

Remove the compressed coil spring from the shock and the shock from the vise.
Installing the New Shock
12.
Step 1

Set the new shock upright on the vise and seat the compressed coil spring on the new shock.
13.
Step 2

Assemble the new shock by installing the spring bumper boot, upper insulator ring, spring seat, suspension support and washer. Fasten the upper center nut using the ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket.
14.
Step 3

Release the two-piece coil spring compressor gradually from the assembly and remove the tool.
15.
Step 4

Position the strut assembly into the wheel well and hand-tighten the three upper mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 29 foot-pounds (39 Nm) with a torque wrench, short ratchet extension and socket.
16.
Step 5

Secure the bottom of the shock absorber to the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolts to 203 foot-pounds (274 Nm), or 105 foot-pounds (142 Nm) if you are replacing the rear shocks. Use the torque wrench.
17.
Step 6

Install the stabilizer bar link to the shock and tighten the nut to 33 foot-pounds (44 Nm) using the torque wrench if you are replacing the rear shocks.
18.
Step 7

Attach the ABS speed sensor bracket and brake hose bracket to the bottom of the shock absorber using the wrench.
19.
Step 8

Move to the other side to replace the shock. Start at Step 4 in Section 1.
20.
Step 9

Install the front wheels and lug nuts. Lower your Corolla and remove the chocks from the wheels.
21.
Step 10

Replace the rear seat cushion and back if you changed the rear shocks.
22.
Step 11

Take your Corolla to the auto shop for wheel alignment inspection if you changed the front shocks.]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9506.html Wed, 04 Aug 2010 19:40:48 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9506.html http://www.10w30.com/thread-9505.html Fri, 30 Jul 2010 01:23:44 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9505.html http://www.10w30.com/thread-9504.html Tue, 27 Jul 2010 22:17:22 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9504.html
It goes something like this......

1. Rain cloud

2. Rain drop

3. Drop dead

Get it? Ok, here we go.......


Drag Race]]>
It goes something like this......

1. Rain cloud

2. Rain drop

3. Drop dead

Get it? Ok, here we go.......


Drag Race]]> http://www.10w30.com/thread-9503.html Tue, 27 Jul 2010 22:00:42 +0000 http://www.10w30.com/thread-9503.html
Example:

Post 1: Late

Post 2: Tail

Post 3: Nail

Post 4: Line

etc, etc

So the first word is:

Lift]]>
Example:

Post 1: Late

Post 2: Tail

Post 3: Nail

Post 4: Line

etc, etc

So the first word is:

Lift]]>